Gardening Guides
Be a gardening legend with step-by-step instructions on how to grow a wide range of plants, what to plant when, how to combat pests and diseases, plus extra tips and tricks to get your garden flourishing.
Top chefs will tell you the secret to a great meal is to use the freshest ingredients available. And you can't get fresher, or more available, than your own garden.
With our increasing love for exotic foods, having a ready supply of Asian herbs and other ingredients growing in your garden is a great way to impress the guests at your next dinner party.
And your perfect 'garden' in this case needs to be nothing more than an empty half wine barrel. Available at Awapuni Nurseries or most vineyards, these barrels can be used to grow everything you need for a great Asian curry.
Find a sunny spot for it near the kitchen door, says Awapuni's gardening guru, Tod Palenski, and get planting.
"A great way to start is to plant a grafted Kaffir lime tree in the middle of the barrel," Tod says. "Their dark, glossy leaves are used in lots of Thai dishes and you can use the fruit in place of ordinary limes or lemons in any recipe."
Using a grafted plant ensures the tree grows stronger, but Tod advises to take care when planting to avoid damaging the roots. Before you plant, drill holes in the bottom of the wine barrel so the soil can drain.
He recommends filling the barrel with a good quality potting mix. This will give the tree a great start and provide a good base to under-plant the lime tree with herbs.
"Planting herbs around the base creates a great contrasting foliage and ensures you always have fresh ingredients on hand," he says. "Awapuni Pop'n'Grow herbs are perfect for this because each seedling has its own individual root system. This allows the plants to be easily separated and gives them a greater chance of establishing."
Tod says because the half barrel is a decent size, you can fit in a few different herbs. He recommends coriander as it's easy to grow and is great in all Asian dishes.
"Coriander grows well in full sun in winter and autumn, but you may need to move it before summer to stop it from flowering too early. It also likes a well-drained soil to make sure it doesn't get too wet."
Tod says mint is particularly vigorous, so containing it in a pot or barrel will keep it under control.
"Basil also makes a great addition to the kitchen garden because it's easy to grow, but wait until the weather warms up before planting it."
Most herbs like full sun or partial shade, so move your barrel around to get the best position throughout the year.
If you're keen to expand your range, Tod recommends planting complementary vegetables in the barrel as well.
"Like the Kaffir lime, chillies will grow well in a dry, sunny spot, but wait until late spring to plant them," he says.
"Keep an eye out for Pop'n'Grow Pak Choi as well, it's easy to grow and works well in stir fries and salads. And, if you still have room, give garlic, lemongrass, shallots, spring onions and ginger a try."
Tod says covering any bare soil in the barrel with small stones, pumice or shells will stop your plants from drying out. Garlic, lemongrass, shallots, and grafted lime trees are available at all good gardening stores.
In no time at all you'll have a fresh supply of herbs and vegetables, in an easy-care 'garden', with which to make authentic, delicious Asian dishes.
And having grown your limes and herbs, here's how to use them in an easy-to-prepare Thai chicken salad that will impress your friends.
Just cook chicken pieces in coconut milk, fish sauce and palm sugar, then make a dressing using sweet chilli sauce and kaffir lime juice. Shred the chicken, and toss with salad leaves, water chestnuts, onions, ginger, chilli and a handful each of chopped mint and coriander leaves. Stir in the dressing and serve garnished with chopped peanuts and extra herbs.
It's also really easy to make your own curry paste. Just throw garlic, ginger, green chillies, Kaffir lime leaves, coriander and lemongrasss into a food processor with cashew nuts, brown sugar, ground tumeric, Kaffir lime juice and fish sauce. You can use the paste to make curry or laksa or as a marinade.
Sound good? Well throw away those ancient packets of dried herbs gathering dust in your cupboards and start afresh with a wine barrel and some gardening inspiration.
Read full articleWe've compiled some tips for you to be able to get more fruits from your vege garden especially during harvest time.
Here are some gardening tips that will enable more fruiting!
1. SOIL MATTERS
Good quality potting mix is equipped with nutrients that will help your plants develop strong roots.
2. Feeding your plants with good fertilisers will boost their yields.
Some options are: Liquid Seaweed and Tomato Foods
3. Choice of plants
Look for plants that grow well within your region's climate. Warmer areas are great for tomatoes while brassicas and cabbages can thrive in cooler areas.
Plant based on what's in season. Use our planting calendar as your guide.
4. Spacing
Give your plants enough space to grow. Planting too close is a disease risk and inhibit proper growth.
5. COMPANION Planting
Companion plants are plants that support the growth of other species to promote their growth. For example, tomatoes love being planted with basil. Mixing flowers with veges help reduce pests and help attract pollinators. It's also helpful to diversify flowering plants, perennials and annuals. Choose blooms that are rich in nectar.
6. Keep picking.
The more you pick, the more the plant produces. Picking initiates more flowers and fruits.
7. WATER regularly.
Keep a schedule. Plants need regular, consistent watering. Irregular watering causes disease and can leave vegetables like lettuce bitter tasting. In hot months, better water early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
8. Watch out for weeds.
These weeds will try to consume the water and nutrients meant for your plants.
9. Let sunshine do its magic.
Veggies love a lot of sun, ideally about 8 hours a day.
10. Start with easy plants.
If you're a beginner, here are some easy-to-grow plants for your edible garden:
Radish, Herbs (Basil Sweet, Parsley), Lettuces, Broccoli, Sweet corn, Spring Onions
Leaf curl (Taphrina deformans) is a common fungal disease that affects peach, nectarine, peachcott, and peacherine etc trees. It causes the leaves (and sometimes the fruit) of the infected tree to become puckered, curled and much thicker than normal. If left untreated the problem will get worse year after year and reduce the tree’s ability to produce lots of fruit.
Fruit tree expert, Sarah Frater of Edible Garden Ltd, says overwinter the fungal spores take up residence in different parts of the tree, but mainly in the buds.
“When the cool wet weather of spring and summer arrives many leaf curl spores are produced and are then splashed or blown from tree to tree. Because this is also the time the trees are breaking bud and forming new leaves, the new growth is easily reinfected with leaf curl.”
Sarah says controlling leaf curl isn’t easy but she says good orchard hygiene habits, which should be repeated each year, will give you the best chance.
“First of all,” says Sarah, “plant your trees where they will get adequate air movement – this will help minimise fungal problems.”
Next, in spring apply a light dressing of a quick acting fertiliser such as sulphate of ammonia to encourage new leaf growth. At the same time, Sarah also recommends applying a seaweed fertiliser, such as Seasol and Comfrey spray, to help the plants’ immunity to leaf curl.
If you do get leaf curl, during spring is when you will notice it in your trees.
Sarah says that once you notice the symptoms of leaf curl in your leaves it is too late to control the disease in those leaves but there is lots you can to do try and stop the fungus from spreading.
“The first step is to remove and destroy as many infected leaves as practical. But don’t compost these as it will spread the infection,” says Sarah.
In autumn and early winter Sarah recommends cleaning up around the base of any peach, nectarine etc trees and removing as many leaves as possible.
“Because these types of trees are susceptible to leaf curl, I suggest doing this regardless of whether they’ve shown any signs of disease. And, again remember – don’t compost the leaves.”
Next, Sarah says you should spray your deciduous trees (the trees that lose their leaves every year) with lime sulphur.
“The lime sulphur acts by burning off the over wintering fungi and pests, including mites. It’s very important you do this for gooseberry bushes because they are prone to catching mites which can eat out the flower buds, meaning your bush ends up with no fruit. Luckily, the lime sulphur will get rid of those mites.
“But I don’t recommend applying it to your apricot trees because they can be sensitive to lime, so it’s best just to avoid it.”
In late winter/spring, Sarah recommends applying a copper-based fungicide to all your deciduous fruit trees – not just peach trees.
“A copper-based fungicide will help stop leaf curl on peach and nectarine trees but it will also treat fungal problems on other fruit trees – like black spot on apple trees.”
She also suggests mixing in the copper fungicide with a spreader/sticker, like RainGard, both of which you can get from your local garden centre.
“RainGard works a bit like soap. Combined with the fungicide, it will make the whole area you spray wet and then when it dries it sticks to the area so you get good coverage that sticks or stays on the tree for a long time.”
Sarah says the copper fungicide (and spreader/sticker) should be applied while the leaf and flower buds are still closed – right before the buds burst.
“Spray thoroughly as you need to create a surface barrier to protect against the fungus. Then follow this up with another spray 10-14 days later – particularly if you’ve had lots of wet weather. This will ensure the trees get the coverage they need.”
Sarah says once you have flower buds showing it’s really important not to spray copper, as it’s very toxic to bees when it’s wet – though fine once it’s dried. And it’s also past the point of the copper being effective as the idea of the copper is to add a protectant layer over the buds, before they burst.
And that’s it for the year. Now, you just have to go back to the beginning of the process and repeat all of the steps – except for applying copper fungicide.
Sarah says because copper is a heavy metal it can build up in the soil. It’s also very toxic to bees when wet so should only be used when necessary. She says if in the past year your trees showed no signs of disease just skip the copper step the following year.
“But, if they are newly planted trees; or were effected by fungus or disease; or you had a wet winter; or you didn’t spray with lime sulphur, then you should still apply copper fungicide,” Sarah finishes.
You can order peach, nectarine, peachcott, peacherine and other fruit and nut trees from specialised mail order nursey, Edible Garden Ltd.
Read full articleFruit tree expert Sarah Frater from Edible Garden has pulled together her action plan for taking care of your fruit and nut trees and plants at this time of year. And don’t forget her ever-popular guide on how to control leaf curl.
Check moisture levels
While it’s getting wetter in most of the country, it’s still important to make sure your trees are receiving enough water. It’s particularly important to ensure your citrus trees (which are shallow rooted) get enough water. If they don’t get enough water in summer and autumn their fruit in winter will be pithy and dry. Mulching will help conserve moisture – and under your feijoa trees will make fruit collection easier. Remember to water well and deep – drippers and soak hoses are ideal for doing this.
Check plant ties and stakes
Make sure your plant ties are secure but not overly tight. These can be a great place for bugs (like scale) to over-winter so check and renew the ties if you need to. It’s also important to check any plants that need stakes are secure.
Harvest nuts
Mow under your nut trees so the grass is short. This will make it easier to collect fallen nuts especially if you’re raking them by hand. Next, dry them OUT of the sun (like under a verandah or in a shed) on an open base (like an old inner sprung mattress base). After a week or two, when the nuts are dried, store them in onion sacks (ideally hanging from the rafters) and away from rodents.
Leaves and prunings
Burn any prunings or leaf litter lying around under any of your fruit trees to avoid the spread of overwintering insects and diseases. This is especially important for trees that have suffered leaf curl and/or brown rot. Remember to remove all mummified fruit as well. Mummified fruit is fruit that has been damaged by fungi and the fungi encases the whole outer of the fruit. All that fungi, if not removed, is just sitting around waiting to re-infect the following season.
Frost protection
If you live in a frost-prone area, start thinking about how you’re going to protect your citrus, tamarillo and passion fruit trees and plants. Either spray them with liquid frost cloth or for your citrus trees you could make straw bale houses around them which you can then secure frost cloth over the top of.
Protect pipfruit from codlin moths
Place corrugated cardboard around the trunks of your pipfruit trees as a trap for migrating and over-wintering pests such as codlin moths. You could also try planting Pelagonium tomentosa (Peppermint pelagonium) which has strong scented leaves. The oil in pelagonium leaves is also present in the roots and can help to deter codlin moth that may try to pupate or over-winter in the soil.
Spraying
Spray plants like gooseberry with winter oil (we use Enspray 99) to protect your plants against mites.
Spray lime sulphur on your pip and stone fruit trees as an autumn/pre-winter cleanup to target pests and diseases. It is very important to remember it burns off the foliage, lichen pests and diseases so only apply it in cool months. And NEVER use it on apricots and some pears, apple Cox’s Orange Pippin and Red Delicious which are sulphur sensitive.
It’s also very important to NEVER mix lime sulphur with other products (especially copper) and allow two weeks after the application of lime Sulphur before applying copper or spraying oil to fruit trees.
Brambles and raspberries
This is your last chance for a post-harvest cleanup on brambles and raspberries. Prune out the spent canes or mark with ties so you know which ones to remove and tie new season canes in place.
Planting
If you’re planning on planting your trees (feijoas, citrus, berry, nut, fruit etc) in a pot then you can do this at most times of the year. With the exception of February as it’s normally too dry for fruit tree planting. And if you’re planning on planting in the ground, now’s the time to start getting ready. Work out where and what you want to grow for planting in winter when the trees are dormant (late June to August).
Take a look at Edible Garden’s catalogue and place your order. Their trees are mostly deciduous (loose their leaves) and they will dispatch the bare-rooted trees when they’re in their dormant phase. Bare-rooted means they have been pulled from the ground and will have no soil around their roots. This means they need to be planted as soon as you receive them in winter and then they will shoot away in spring.
Like us, Edible Garden ships their trees all over the country – even Stewart Island and the Chathams. And because the plants are bare-rooted it means they’re cheaper and easier to courier. With over 20 pages in their catalogue you’re bound to find something of interest – the problem will probably be you find too much of interest!
Once you’ve got your trees, try companion-planting something like primulas and pansies around the base of the trees to add some colour before the trees shoot off.
Read full articleWet weather getting you down? Dreaming of escaping to a sun-drenched Mediterranean oasis where you sip gin and tonics by a clear blue pool?
Well we can't help with the weather or your location, but we can help you recreate that Mediterranean feel in your garden. And we'll even throw in some lemons for your G&T.
Dwarf fruit trees are fast becoming the latest accessory for those wanting to create their own slice of the Med. Because they grow to less than half the size of regular fruit trees, they can also be grown in pots - making them perfect for apartment and townhouse dwellers who long for fruit trees, but lack the space.
"New varieties of dwarf fruit trees mean you can grow luscious, fresh fruit even if you're pushed for room," says gardening expert, Tod Palenski of Awapuni Nurseries. "They grow faster than their full-sized friends and their fruit is often tastier."
Plant fruit trees in winter? You bet. Plant now, says Tod, and you'll reap the benefits come summer. The only question is what fruit to choose.
"For the ultimate Mediterranean look, and a never-ending supply of lemons for your G&Ts, you can't afford to go past a combination of lemon, olive and fig trees."
"The dark leaves and glossy fruit of a lemon tree contrast beautifully with the duller green and grey of olive and fig trees."
"And in summer the large leaves of the fig trees create a canopy effect, so you can move the pots to wherever you want shade."
To ensure your fig tree maintains its small dimensions, but still produces plenty of normal sized fruit, Tod recommends buying a grafted plant. A grafted plant will provide support, help the tree grow faster and speed up the time in which it fruits.
For easy growing and self-pollinating fruit trees, Tod recommends cherry guavas and unique feijoas.
"They both taste fantastic, cherry guavas are high in vitamin C, and the unique feijoa tree could end up with more than 30 fruit in the first year."
If you're a summer fruit fan and nectarines, apples and peaches are more your kind of thing, try growing baby bear nectarines, ballerina and crab apples and bonanza peaches.
"They provide great tasting fruit, especially for bottling, and will put on a fantastic display of blossoms in either summer or spring."
Most dwarf trees are self-pollinating, which means they can produce fruit without the help of another tree. But to maximise fruit production it's better to grow several trees together to encourage cross-pollination, which means more fruit.
So let's get started.
If you're planting in pots, use large containers that are 500 to 600 millimetres in diameter and the same in depth. This will create stability in the wind.
"Fill the pot with a good quality potting mix with a slow-release fertiliser to give the trees a good kick start and then plant your tree," Tod says.
To ensure your trees continue to grow well, Tod recommends giving them a boost of nitrophoska blue every three months.
"The magnesium in the fertiliser will promote nice, green leaves on your citrus trees. But don't use too much because you might end up with brown tips!"
Tod says another tip for great tasting and juicy fruit is to give the plants plenty of water during summer while the fruit is developing.
He also recommends applying an organic fungicide, such as copper, in summer to prevent curly leaf. And conker oil to combat thrips, spider mites and other pests.
In terms of pruning, not a lot is required in the first four or five years, but Tod says citrus trees will give more fruit in coming years if you remove all the fruit as soon as it appears in the first year.
"Your tree will grow much more in its first year, and produce more fruit in future years, if it's not spending all its time and energy feeding to grow fruit."
For colourful and fantastic looking pots all year round, plant annuals and perennials around the base of your fruit trees.
"The vibrant blooms of pansies and polyanthus look wonderful with peach, nectarine and apple trees, especially during winter when the trees may defoliate."
Awapuni Nurseries has a huge variety of both annuals and perennials available in their revolutionary pop'n'grow range.
The individual root system of pop'n'grow plants means they can be unwrapped, separated and prepared for the soil without disturbing or breaking the roots. All of which makes planting a breeze.
Pop'n'grows are available from supermarkets, The Warehouse, Kmart and Bunnings stores and online at Awapuni Nurseries, and include a comprehensive range of herbs and vegetables.
"Parsley and coriander make a great combination with citrus fruits in the kitchen and they also look terrific when grown together in pots," Tod says.
So grab a pot, choose a sunny spot and get started today on your own Mediterranean garden hide-away. You'll enjoy the fruits of your labour for years to come.
Get better success with sugar baby watermelons:
1. Summer is the perfect time to plant watermelons. As they need about 3 months of warm weather to grow and ripen. Sowing of seeds can start earlier but with seedlings, December is a great time to put them in the soil.
2. Choose a sunny spot with well drained soil.
3. Use fertile soil with lots of organic matter. Seaweed (Tui Organic Seaweed Plant Tonic) and fish fertiliser can work wonders.
4. They need a lot of water especially in the early stages.
5. Give them a lot of space to grow. Plant in mounds 2 meters apart.
6. Bees and beneficial insects help pollinate the melons. Plant marigolds, dill, borage, onions, mint, lavender, chives, sunflowers (will also provide shade), cosmos near your watermelons to invite more bees.
7. You can tell when the watermelon is ready for picking when you tap it and it gives a slight echo sound.
8. Sun is the secret in successful watermelons.
Read full article